Key points
- Bikpela, a 2.7-metre hydrothermal spire, reveals details of Earth's turbulent volcanic environment hidden from view on the seafloor of the Manus Basin off Papua New Guinea.
- Our scientists uncovered its layered secrets, showcasing the interplay of tectonic activity, biology, and geology in hydrothermal systems.
- Now on display as part of the stunning new exhibition Ultimate Depth at the Australian National Maritime Museum in Sydney, Bikpela offers a rare glimpse into Earth's deep-sea wonders.
The RV Franklin bobbed gently on the surface of the Pacific Ocean. The sky darkened as night fell over the Manus Basin off the coast of Papua New Guinea (PNG).
It was April 2000. The team of researchers onboard the Franklin were led by chief scientist Dr Ray Binns and was made up of experts from Australia and PNG. Far below them, unseen by all but the ship’s instruments, volcanic forces had sculpted the seafloor, fuelling the Manus Basin’s extraordinary hydrothermal vent systems – cradles of heat where spires and chimney-like blackened towers rose, venting minerals into the deep.
Ray explained that the team had spent time here, mapping and sampling the Satanic Mills hydrothermal field. Now, Dredge MD-133 descended again. It was tasked with sampling microbial life drifting around these otherworldly structures.
They all knew the challenges; the dredge had snagged on the unforgiving seafloor in earlier missions. Now, as the dredge bit into the fringe of the vent field, the cable’s tension spiked. It wasn’t just stuck – the Franklin was anchored.
Fifty long minutes passed. Carefully, Captain Neil Cheshire manoeuvred Franklin back to the hang-up point, hauling and paying cable until the dredge finally broke free. Cable readings spoke of a heavy load, but nothing could have prepared them for what was eventually hauled up through the waves. Dangling precariously across the dredge’s ring was a giant: a 2.7-metre-tall, perfectly tapered spire, dripping warm, acid seawater into the dark.
The crew worked fast, guiding the colossal specimen onboard. It was an extraordinary find.
A rare type of hydrothermal deposit
Wrapped in the cook’s cheesecloth and plastic, Bikpela was nursed with seawater during the long journey to Darwin, where its immense weight – 970 kilograms – was confirmed. The Royal Australian Air Force transported the chimney from Darwin to CSIRO’s Sydney laboratories, after which it was trucked to Perth and sawn lengthwise into two halves, revealing a complex internal structure.
They named it Bikpela Binatang or simply Bikpela. It meant “Big Bug” in Tok Pisin (a creole language spoken throughout PNG). A marvel wrenched from the deep, Bikpela was a rare type of hydrothermal deposit, different from those previously known.
Formed when superheated, metal-rich fluids burst through the ocean floor and mixed with icy seawater, the chimney grew layer by layer. Its core was framed by deposits of opaline silica, barite (barium sulfate), with some zinc, iron, lead and copper sulfides, with significant trace amounts of silver and gold.
“It was clearly quite different from the high temperature, sulfide-rich "chimneys” known as "black smokers” that the team had collected elsewhere in the Manus Basin and dominate hydrothermal vent fields elsewhere,” Ray said.
A window into a dynamic ocean floor
Bikpela’s structure reveals clues about the growth cycles of such chimneys – from initial microbial activity to several stages of high-temperature precipitation of sulfide minerals, and even an event of dissolution and collapse that created a large cavity in its core.
The chimney once stood tall, part of a seafloor landscape few humans will ever witness – a hydrothermal vent field alive with heat, minerals, macro- and microfauna, and the surprising interplay of life and geology.
Ray explains that recovering Bikpela and studying it has greatly expanded our understanding of low-temperature hydrothermal deposits found alongside metal sulfide "black smokers" on active volcanic seafloors. These deposits are considered modern counterparts to base metal sulfide orebodies – concentrations of metals like copper, lead, and zinc that formed in ancient geological settings and are now a major focus for mining exploration.
“If old sequences were found to contain fossil equivalents of Bikpela, then more valuable deposits could occur nearby, and the Manus Basin fields provide valuable guides to improve the success rate of such exploration,” he said.
Black smoker chimneys typically last from years to decades, depending on geological and environmental conditions. Shifts in tectonic activity or structural weakening can cause them to collapse or become inactive. Some chimneys regenerate if venting resumes, making them fascinating yet ephemeral deep-sea features.
By the time it was hauled aboard the Franklin, Bikpela was nearing the end of its natural life. However, it remains one of the largest of its kind ever recovered, and it had much to teach scientists.
Insight into rare, underwater worlds
Dr Joanna Parr is a geochemist and senior scientist with our Mineral Resources team. So many years after Bikpela was brought up to the surface, she’s still excited about the find.
“It’s a phenomenal structure – beautiful, intricate, and scientifically valuable,” Joanna said.
“What’s exciting is how much it tells us about the relationship between tectonic activity, hydrothermal fluids associated with submarine volcanoes, and biological processes in forming these chimneys. We don’t get to see pieces like this often. It’s a real privilege to bring them back to share with others.”
Since its recovery, the chimney has been displayed at CSIRO’s Kensington office in Perth. Louise Fisher, acting Director of our Mineral Resources team, said our scientists gained significant insights into Australia’s mineral systems and their evolution from studying it when it was first recovered.
Louise got used to walking past the Bikpela Chimney as she entered the office every day. She often pointed it out to visiting scientists, students, and community groups.
“You can see people’s faces light up when they realise what they’re looking at,” she said.
“They might walk past it at first, but when I explain where it came from and how it formed, you can feel the sense of wonder. That’s what makes it so special – it connects people to a part of the world they might never have imagined.”
Bikpela’s journey to a new home
After over a decade in Kensington, Bikpela was prepared for a new home. Our team saw the grand old smoker off with a special farewell and cup of tea.
It takes pride of place in the Australian National Maritime Museum’s exhibition Ultimate Depth: A Journey to the Bottom of the Sea.
Moving such a large and fragile structure was no simple task. It was a significant logistical challenge, but one well within the capabilities of Rheanon Thornton, our site operations manager.
Although the spire’s hollow collapse core had been stabilised with resin, its intricate outer layers remain fragile. To ensure its safety during transport, a custom-made case was designed, and the team meticulously planned every step of its journey.
“We’d thought about every detail – from the ramps it would travel down to how it would be loaded onto the truck,” Louise said.
“It was a bit nerve-wracking, but we were confident it’d get there safely.”
It made the journey intact. Emily Jateff, Curator, Ocean Science and Technology at the Australian National Maritime Museum, was eagerly waiting to receive it.
New audiences discover Bikpela
Emily and her team designed the exhibition to provide a rare opportunity for the public to engage with the mysteries of the deep sea.
Alongside Bikpela, visitors will encounter other artefacts and stories from the ocean floor, immersing them in the unique ecosystems found kilometres below the surface.
Emily believes Bikpela is perhaps the largest example of its kind on public display worldwide, making it a true wonder. (The other half is held by Museums Victoria).
“Bikpela connects the public to the hydrothermal vent communities found in the deepest parts of our global ocean. Some scientists believe these represent the origin of life on Earth.
“The Australian National Maritime Museum is thrilled to showcase this object as an example of the value of marine science, and to share this important example of vibrant deepwater ecosystems. Without science, the ocean would continue to be a mystery,” Emily said.
For Joanna, the chimney’s relocation marks the beginning of a new chapter.
“This is why we do what we do,” she said.
“It’s not just about the discovery – it’s about sharing it with the world. The more people learn about places like the Manus Basin, the more they’ll understand the importance of protecting these incredible environments.”
As for Louise, she’s already anticipating the reactions of the museum’s visitors.
“It’s been a privilege to work with Bikpela and to share it with the people who’ve come through CSIRO. Now, it’s going to reach an even wider audience,” she said.
“I think it’s going to spark curiosity and excitement in a whole new way.”
From the depths of the Manus Basin to the galleries of Sydney, the Bikpela Spire’s journey is one of discovery, wonder, and connection. Its very presence serves as a reminder of the vast, mysterious world beneath the waves – and the many stories still waiting to rise to the surface.